Tuesday, December 26, 2006

Thailand Part 2

See, now aren't you glad I didn't have to keep sending out mass emails?

I can't promise to be brief, but at least it's your call if you want my words to aid you in your procrastination.

Quick note: 35 baht = one US dollar

So my first meal in Chiang Rai.....

It was on Christmas eve and Godwin, a man volunteering from Malaysia, and his son invited me to go with them into town. He had picked a nice hotel restaurant to dine at. Well, nice was an understatement. He picked the best hotel in town. In the lobby were quite a few pictures of Asian higher ups. You can imagine how much the food cost. Now for comparison’s sake yesterday I had good sized plate of very tasty chicken fried rice (kaao put guy in Thai) for 20 baht/57 cents. A plate at the hotel cost 120 baht. An eight ounce coke cost 70 baht. I only know since my request for "cold water" was met with a brownish fizzy drink. I’m not sure how that happened. She would have heard at least “coke water” but my coke wasn’t watered down one bit. In fact, it had a lime in it! I’d hate to be the person that asked for a big piece of "rum cake." They’d be a bit tipsy afterwards I’m afraid.

Long story made longer.....585 baht/$16 later we finished up.....more than I would spend on a meal in THE US. Not to mention the 250 baht taxi ride. I don’t imagine I’ll be spending that much on a meal ever again here. My 20 baht rice was just as good as the 120 baht variety at the hotel.

Monday, December 25, 2006

Guess Their Age!

Thailand Part 1

When I arrived in Thailand I was amazed at how clean it was. Chiang Rai is far more spread out and sparse (read normal) compared to Kathmandu. I could tell right away that Thailand is a much more developed country. The DTS location is also quite nice with longer beds, warm showers, and better food. It’s like I’ve moved from a one-star hotel to a three or four star.

So my 1st trip by myself into Chiang Rai was an adventure. I stood on the super highway trying to flag down a bus ride into town for 30 minutes before another YWAMer told me the proper way to get a bus to stop. I walked to the “the Big C” mall/store and took a cab ride to the bus station after I was done. I got on a bus and 30 minutes later if left, 20 minutes later than expected. I missed my turn off by some 14 KM and when I realized I was in the next town I got out and started walking back. I found a gas station and tried to see where I was at. No one on my trip back spoke any English! I managed to arrange a ride in the bed of a pickup truck that was getting gas. I thought I saw my turnoff so I got out only to find that I was mistaken. I continued to walk down the road in the middle of the night until an older man in his scooter stopped and offered me a ride. We rode to another gas station where he tried to find someone who knew more English. That didn’t happen and only THEN did I remember I had the intersection written out in Thai by a Thai DTS staff person that I was staying with. I showed it to the man and off we went again, this time to the right spot. So laugh all you want. I still made it home….just an hour later than expected.

Minor Points (Nepal Part 3)

I had some much needed American-style meals during my stay at some wonderful North Americans’ houses. The meat in Nepal isn’t very good and is very fatty and bone-filled so I just didn’t eat it unless it was at a restaurant in town.

There were 5-6 small children that were always running around making noise with their squeaky high voices. Quiet time was hard to come by. One of those small children was the girl who lived next door and would start screaming just about every morning at 6AM! But somehow we got used to it. Since I usually went to bed at 10PM it wasn’t as big a problem. It became quite comical to see when she’d start in the morning and how fake her “crying” would sound.

Some afternoons were filled with a few nice games of volleyball before the sun went down. I enjoyed being the tallest guy playing! Other times we’d put four small tables together to form a ping-pong table. There would be a huge crease down the middle though that made for some interesting bounces and reactions.

The cheapest meal was 15 rupee/21 cent momos at a restaurant near the YWAM base. We were afterwards told not to eat there since it didn’t even pass Nepali sanitation standards.

I think I lost about 15 pounds while in Nepal! All my pants are too big now.

So Nepali’s have a different way they worship. Prayer times start with everyone praying, somewhat loudly, at the same time. They didn’t seem to sing a large variety of songs. Rather they tended to sing a few VERY enthusiastically.

Women dress very conservatively in Nepal. Well, accept the odd occurrence of the sari. It was winter in Nepal at the time so that might have influenced things as well. Anyway, most women wore colorful loose fitting pants with a long knee-length shirt overtop. Usually a scarf around the neck accompanied any outfit. The sari however usually showed part of the women’s midriff which doesn’t seem to fit their conservative culture. Normally you’d only see women wearing saris.

The base was quite dirty by our standards. The dishes were washed in pans with cold water and left to dry outside. I was told that occasionally the two nasty street dogs they kept as pets would lick some of the plates, but I tried not to think of that while I was easting!

My bed was only 6 feet long. It was built for the shorter Nepali people.

I only got to take 2-3 warm showers the entire time I was there. Often times I’d just wash my hair in the sink with freezing cold water. Talk about a brain freeze.

The rooms where not heated so at night (40-45F) everything got to be pretty cold.

I hand-washed all my clothes. Because of that I only did laundry twice. Towards the end I’d wear a shirt for 5-6 days straight. I guess that is pretty normal there. When in Rome!

I won’t even start in on the nasty street dogs they kept on base. They each had babies during the time I was there too. I have no idea why they kept those things around. I think about half the Nepali’s there didn’t want them either.

Nepali women make very little eye contact.

Nepal Part 2

The ages of the Nepali people here are hard to understand. I had one 42 year old that looked 70 and a 32 that looked 55. We had a joke about how all Nepali’s were either 25 or 70. The younger ones looked their age, but once they hit 30 or so most looked much older. See my “guess their age” post.

So a few times each week we’d go into town. It was a 30-45 minute mini-bus ride into town. They’d pack about 30 people into a conversion-van-type mini-bus. Then you’d take a 5-minute tuk-tuk ride to Jawalakhel, which was the area we did most our eating and some shopping. The bus ride cost 10 rupees (or 15 cents) and the tuk-tuk was 7 rupees/10 cents. Not to shabby, eh? Everything is super cheap here and a decent boneless chicken meal would cost $2 and a plate of momos (steamed thin dough ball with meat inside) was $1. The pop bottles were all reused like the pictures show, but they were cleaned on the inside before being refilled at the factory. I loved to eat this bread called naan bread. It was only 15 cents for a plateful. It is thin, chewy, and slightly sweet. Just add peanut butter for a delicious snack. Near Jawalakhel most people knew English so it wasn’t a problem getting things done.

So the last week I was there I went into town by myself, which was really a non-event by that time. In comparison just yesterday, after only being here two days, did I venture into Chiang Rai. More on that later!

So on one weekend we got a change to visit Pashupathinath and Swayambhunath (from here on out I’ll call them Pash and Swym). Pash is a very holy Hindu site. It was a very dirty place, like most of Kathmandu, trash was lying everywhere. There were also loads of monkeys running around. Occasionally, we’d see a Hindu Sadu with his face all painted up. Pash has around 50 small shrines built for some of their gods with an emphasis on their gods Shiva and Kali. The river running through Pash was very dirty and litter was flowing in it. This is where they throw the ashes of the cremated bodies. There were people ceremonially bathing in it as well. Not very sanitary at all!

Swym was a bit different. It’s a major Buddhist stupa/temple. We walked up a ton of steep stairs to get to the top complex. There were lots of monkeys at this place and some nasty street dogs. It had an amazing overlook of Kathmandu. This is where we found the most prayer flags and all the prayer wheels. There was an inside building with several statues of Buddha and a bunch of monks playing ceremonial music.

Okay, onto the Gorka wedding. This was the only time I got to go outside of the Kathmandu valley. We rode for 3-4 hours in a nicer mini-bus (cost $3.50) and then got on top of another one for the last 10-15 minutes. The roads are very windy and people pass blindly. There are many accidents reported on this winding highway. It was fun to watch them pass and then quickly back off or go for it without seeing around a corner. It was a very scenic drive. The mountain photos are mostly from this drive. The village was very laid back. Not quite as dirty as Kathmandu. It was a nice change of pace. The doors were all small though. The village was on a hill (like all villages in Nepal) and just a 15 minute walk from a huge river basin.

So a week later was graduation. I got a delicious box of chocolates from my students, a few cards, and a wallet with a Nepali flag on it. It was sad to see my students leave, but it was time and six weeks of learning for 3-4 hours a day was enough for now. It was great to see them progress and learn better pronunciation.

The last stop on my Nepal trip was to a botanical garden. We actually didn’t make it to the flower part, but there are a few pictures posted of the grounds around the garden. It was pretty clean and made me feel like I was in another country.

So then was my trip to the airport! I thought it would be just a normal mini-bus ride, but an hour before I was supposed to leave as I was eating breakfast I was told that there was going to be a strike/protest at a place along my route to the airport. So my informant told the mini-bus driver to come immediately instead of in 2 hours. I quickly took a shower and finished packing up. I guess the protest happened early because about 2 KM from the airport my mini-bus stopped and I was told he couldn’t go any further! He then called Yogya, my Nepali friend who lived on the base. Yogya graciously got on his motorbike and rode out to where we were stopped. Now, I have all my luggage which is two medium bags plus my two carry-ons. I have a lot of luggage! We load up the two bigger pieces between Yogya and I on the motorbike seat and he holds my laptop case filled with books. I’m holding my 20-30lb carry-on to my side off the motorbike…..and away we go. Boy, was I praying like crazy. I could barely see over the luggage between Yogya and I and the carry-on was making my arm tremble. But we made it okay by weaving through people and on a bumping back road. I was so relieved to get to the airport.

So then I flew three hours to Thailand, waited 15 hours in Bangkok for the Chiang Rai flight and here I am in Thailand.

Nepal Part 1

I’ll attempt to write about my experience in Nepal starting with a rough timeline of events. I’ll end with some various cultural aspects that don’t really go in any specific chronological order.

I left Minneapolis with an awkward bang. I put my coat on backwards. Not a good sign. My luggage was under the weight limit and I got my first boarding pass to LAX. My flight was over an hour late arriving into LAX. My connection was a bit tight so I was very nervous about getting my Thai Airlines boarding passes and getting to the flight gate on time. When I arrived at LAX I wasn’t sure where to go, but eventually found out you have to go outside to get to the international terminal. I quickly scurried up there only to find that it is one super busy place. I ran to one side only to find that security had that point shut down so I have to scurry back to the other side and wait in line for 20-30 minutes. Sweaty and feeling exhausted I arrived at my gate with only 20 minutes to spare.

The 17-hour flight from LAX to Bangkok went better than expected. I slept a bit and got some reading done. The Bangkok airport feels like a sterile white hospital, but it is spacious. The Kathmandu, Nepal airport is considerably less modern. I got off the plane onto the tarmac and walked into the airport. When I got to the exit a guy holding a 8x11” sign the read “LANCE ESL” was waiting for me and not my teammates as I’d expected. I didn’t know who he was, but at least he was a native English speaker. He bartered in Nepali for a mini-bus/taxi for me and my luggage and off we went. Wow, was that a crazy cab ride! I’ve never been in a vehicle that cut through traffic like that. It swerved in and out of traffic barely missing people, motorbikes, and other cars. After being in Nepal awhile I realized that everyone drove this close to each other. The cab ride had the nice unasked for benefit of desensitizing me to the crazy driving and traffic in Kathmandu. I never did find a ride that was that exciting. It was better than an amusement park rollercoaster.

So I went out to the base only to find that I was the only white person there after Ross, my pick-up person left. But most people spoke understandable English and I had some good talks over dinner. I sat across from a guy from Bangladesh. It wasn’t uncommon to have 6-8 countries represented in the dining hall at any given meal. Then I met this guy named Stephen, at first I thought he was from the US. He spoke great English and it was a relief to talk with him. It gets exhausting trying to figure out what some non-native English speakers are trying to say. But, at least they are trying! I couldn’t speak more than a few words of Nepali.

Soon after I tried out the “squatty potties” which are glorified porcelain holes in the ground. I wasn’t sure how I wanted to squat. I went down and then back up. How are you supposed to do this without getting the bottom of your pants…….dirty? Do this for me. Squat down for me and imagine you have to pull your pants down and move them out of the way…clearing the way for your business to happen. NOT EASY. So I eventually took my pants off and tried again, successfully….well I had to go up and down three times since my legs were getting so sore, but other than that it went well.

So my team arrived a few days later. They had been on a trek to see the mountains from a much closer spot in a place west of Kathmandu. After I heard what they had to go through I’m glad I couldn’t go. It would have been an amazing site, but I guess they were very very exhausted and sore.

So that Sunday Peter and I decided to attend an all Nepali church service. It was a lot of fun at first. It’s an experience. But when you don’t understand anything it gets a bit boring. We had to sit on small cushions on the floor. My butt and back started to hurt pretty quickly. The men and women also sit on opposite sides of the room. In general you don’t see hardly any physical affection between married couples.

Next we had to prepare for English classes. It was a more trying period to get through all the preparation. We didn’t have very defined classrooms and the nicest room on the base (the office) was off-limits. That forced one classroom into meeting on the 3rd floor which was unfinished and not walled in. Eventually they moved to a first floor storage area and setup shop since it wasn’t as cold there. I had my class in a corner of the meeting hall since I had one woman who couldn’t walk very well.

My class had about 10 students. Both men I had got bumped up a level so that left me with about eight women! I can’t really adequately describe the experience of class, but it was very interesting to say the least. Some hadn’t had any schooling before. There is a VERY unfortunate saying in Nepal that says “sending your daughter to school is like sending your neighbor’s cow.” But I think that’s changing as one of the young girls on base was going to school.

Saturday, December 23, 2006

Pictures Pictures Pictures

Okay so those new to blogging please start from the first post by clicking the "older posts" link at the bottom of this page and scrolling down to the bottom of the second page.

I plan on doing a write-up of all that went on as well. If you'd prefer to just look at pictures with captions then click on the pictures below or just go to: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lanceericksonnd. There are about 100 pictures from Nepal and about 20 from Thailand so far. Between the five of us on my team we had over 2,000 pictures from Nepal alone.

Oh, and if there are any obvious accidental typos please let me know.
Thanks and have a wonderful Christmas season!

Lance and other people

Nepali Food

Pashupati/Hinduism & Swayambhu/Buddhism

YWAM base 8 KM South of Kathmandu

Gorka, 4 hours west of Kathmandu

Kathmandu

Countryside

Nepal Photos

I'm going to organize them into groups since there are about a 100 pictures. Most of them were resized to around 100KB.

My Photos

Click the link below for all my photos. http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lanceericksonnd

Shaving Time!

First Thailand Images

Sa-wat-dee-kap - Jay-mah-see - Hello

Welcome! I'm going to use blogger to post daily happenings and new pictures.